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Whenever assembling a ranking of London’s finest dining spots, one might anticipate familiar Michelin-starred venues. But, nestled high among these gastronomic titans is a modest salonu found in a outlying corner of north London.

A Shocking Honour

This little Turkish eatery, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the capital by a respected culinary publication. This accolade has left the proprietors totally shocked.

“I am utterly shocked,” remarks the family member, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their humble shop securing such a high spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

The little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after destination, has maintained much of its original feel. It accommodates just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking display, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” says the owner.

The Signature Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the cuisine, and this eatery more than delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then added into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. Once the meaty mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to take in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is typically consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a mighty slap of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic described this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than usual, resulting in it a more intense, nuttier and not overly sweet taste.

Rising Above the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place satisfied for under £25, equivalent meals at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

The Philosophy of Heart

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is hospitality, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is supported by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not train at fancy establishments. “I am very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a personal life but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

A Recognition for the Culture

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to echo beyond its own doors. “In my opinion a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the broader significance of this culinary achievement.